EuroTribe

your guide to Europe off the beaten path

Category: Serbia

Travel Guide To Nis – Serbia’s Undiscovered Gem

Serbia is still insufficiently known country in terms of tourism and the first associations related to it are usually great nightlife of the capital and the world-famous Exit festival. However,…

Serbia is still insufficiently known country in terms of tourism and the first associations related to it are usually great nightlife of the capital and the world-famous Exit festival. However, if you decide to look deeper you’ll find more fascinating gems that wait to be discovered by more travelers.

One such gem is Nis, the third largest city in the country. Due to its geographic position Nis has always been considered a gateway between East and the West and one of the most famous military roads in the world called Via Militaris used to run through its territory.

The city is most proud of the fact that Constantine the Great, the first Christian Emperor and the founder of Constantinople was born here. In 2013, the city was host to the celebration of 1700 years of Constantine’s Edict of Milan.

Besides many important historical monuments, the city offers many opportunities for outdoor recreation in its vicinity, it’s proud of its food and maybe most of all its hospitality. Indeed, many people will say you haven’t actually been to Serbia without visiting its south.

The bloody history of Nis

The fortress in the very center of the city is the most famous tourist attraction. The oldest remains such as the tombstones and thermal baths are linked to the Roman era. Given the fact that the fortress was destroyed and renovated several times, it was in hands of many conquerors, among them the Ottomans. Some rare objects that have been preserved from Turkish times are a hamam and mosque which is now being used as an art gallery.

Nis Fortress, Serbia

The monument which perhaps speaks the most about the brutal history of this city is the Skull tower. It was built after the defeat at the Battle of Cegar in 1809, during the First Serbian Uprising. Turks have built this tower which consisted of 952 skulls of Serbian soldiers. Today however, only 54 stay on it. Upon visiting Nis in 1830, a French romantic poet Alphonse de Lamartine said that the Skull tower was one of the most horrific things he’s seen.

Another sad reminder of a recent history is Bubanj Memorial Park which was built to commemorate the shooting of more than 10,000 citizens of Nis during the Second World War. It’s one of the most famous monuments of this kind in the former Yugoslavia and it consists of three concrete obelisks which symbolize men’s, women’s and children’s hands that defy the enemy.

The citizens of Nis were brought here from the Red Cross concentration camp which was operated by Germans during the Second World War. This is one of the best preserved camps in Europe and a little known fact is that the largest escape from all the camps on the continent was organized here.

Red Cross concentration camp Nis, Serbia

City of burek and “Chaos”

Nis’ main pedestrian street is full of traditional restaurants and cafes where you can sit and relax after sightseeing. The city is famous for its burek, a pastry filled with meat or cheese but there are other varieties too. The recipe for round burek was developed in Nis back in 1498 by a famous Turkish baker Mehmed Oglu from Istanbul and since then it got spread all over the country and beyond. The city hosts an annual burek competion and the world’s biggest burek was made here – its diameter was 2 meters long.

Chaos? Nothing to worry about. It’s just the name of a salad which consists of cream cheese in oil mixed with ground peppers and garlic. Other popular dishes are the shopska salad, cevapcici and pljeskavica – better known as the Balkan burger. When it comes to drinks, a local favorite is rakija, a brandy made from various fruits. The city prides itself on its traditional spirit which is reflected in high number of taverns.

The Alps at the South of Serbia

Just ten kilometers away of the city center there’s a Spa of Nis, a famous health center in Serbia. It is very well known for its hot, radioactive water containing radon. The spa is especially popular among athletes and has a new modern wellness center.

The vicinity of Nis is rich in natural beauties. Suva planina (meaning the Dry Mountain), which was named as the ‘Alps at the South of Serbia’ by the most famous Serbian geographer Jovan Cvijic is especially attractive. Its highest peak called Trem (1810 m) is very popular among mountaineers. There are several trails that are well-marked and which lead to several peaks that offer beautiful views. Mountains in the vicinity of Nis are also ideal for mountain running, climbing, rock climbing, speleology etc.

Suva planina, Serbia

Suva planina Serbia

Cerje Cave for example offers ideal conditions for tours that are tailored to different interests (educational, sports and adventurous visits etc.). For water sports enthusiasts there are opportunities for rafting and kayaking on the river Nisava.

How to get there

Starting from June 29th WizzAir will add flights to Nis from Basel/Mulhouse and to Malme – Sweden from June 25th. However, the best way to reach the city is by bus. ‘Nis Express’ has 22 daily services to Nis from the capital city Belgrade and the journey takes about 3 hours.

 

 

3 Comments on Travel Guide To Nis – Serbia’s Undiscovered Gem

7 Fantastic Walks in Eastern Europe

Eastern Europe offers some fantastic opportunities for walking and not just in the countryside and wilderness, but also in its cities rich with culture and history. Not only will you…

Eastern Europe offers some fantastic opportunities for walking and not just in the countryside and wilderness, but also in its cities rich with culture and history. Not only will you explore new places, but walking is also a fun recreational activity suitable for all ages. Here are my picks for the 7 fantastic walks in Eastern Europe:

The Castle District and The Old Town, Prague

Prague is definitely one of Europe’s most beautiful cities and the best way to explore it is to start from the Castle District. The Prague Castle is the seat of the Czech president and it’s one of the most famous attractions in the city. The views from the top are amazing and from here you can get down to the Charles Bridge which is flooded by tourists, musicians and painters. Continuing to the Old Town you’ll see numerous historic buildings including the famous Astronomical Clock.

View from the Charles Bridge Prague

Meteora, Greece

You don’t get to walk in “the middle of the sky” every day. Well, that’s what Meteora basically means in Greek. This complex consists of 24 monasteries located on immense rocks which were split by earthquakes a million of years ago. This place served as a shelter for those people who seeked spiritual isolation, and considering that they had to use ladders and ropes to inhabitate this unfriendly area, it’s pretty amazing to imagine what they’ve done. However, only six remain today and they are part of the UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Walking is definitely the best way to explore Meteora and to enjoy truly breathtaking views and that’s the reason why so many tourist agencies offer interesting hiking tours.

Meteora monasteries

Durmitor and Northern Montenegro

The best way to explore Durmitor national park is to start from Zabljak, which is the highest populated town in the Balkans. 18 glacial lakes also known as the “mountain eyes” add so much to the beauty of this place. The park has more than 200km of marked hiking trails that pass through pine forests and numerous springs. I also suggest a visit to the Holy Trinity Monastery in Pljevlja which is hidden in the woods and has one of the richest art collections in the ex-Yugoslav countries.

Holy Trinity Monastery Pljevlja Montenegro

Old Town, Warsaw

Surely there are more beautiful historic centres in Europe but Warsaw deserves to be a part of this list mainly because of the reconstruction of its urban core after the WW2. It’s just amazing to walk its streets and to imagine that 90% of the city was completely demolished and that exactly looked like this. The historic centre is surrounded by Barbican  – one of the few remaining fortifications in Warsaw. Other prominent tourist attractions in the Old Town include the Royal Castle, St. John’s Cathedral and the Sigismund’s Column.

Old town Warsaw

Eastern Serbia

If you want to escape from civilization Eastern Serbia is a place to go! This hidden gem is famous for its fascinating beauties, waiting to be discovered by more travelers. Picturesque villages located below Stara planina, the highest mountain in eastern Serbia, Zavoj lake with ideal places for camping and interesting geological forms are definitely gonna attract more travelers interested in adventure tourism to this area. For instance, Dry Mountain is a great place for hiking as it offers breathtaking views from the top and it often gathers mountaineers from various parts of the Balkans.

Zavoj lake Serbia

Skocjan Educational Trail, Slovenia

You definitely shouldn’t miss Skocjan Caves once in Slovenia as this place ideally combines beautiful nature and cultural heritage. The underground canyon of Skocjan caves is the largest of its kind in the world and touring this place will make you feel like you’re in an Indiana Jones movie! The most impressive part is walking down the stairs and reaching the bridge inside the cave which is located above the Reka river, some 45 meters above. The cave is surrounded by Skocjan and Betanja villages which are also part of the Skocjan Educational Trail and they are also worth exploring because of the rich cultural heritage and great hiking paths.

Skocjan caves Slovenia

Istiklal Avenue, Istanbul

Walking down this street for the first time will surely never leave your memory. With a never ending flow of people, art galleries, cinemas, libraries, historical patisseries, cafes and restaurants you’ll be like Alice in Wonderland.  The only thing that can interrupt your walk are beautiful historic red trams which are the symbol of the city.  However don’t just walk the Istiklal street, but also explore the alleyways with markets and restaurants.

Istiklal avenue

What’s your most memorable walk?

1 Comment on 7 Fantastic Walks in Eastern Europe

Top 4 Cultural Attractions in Novi Sad, Serbia

Novi Sad, a city known for its world famous Exit Festival has so much to offer besides partying. It is home to some of the most important cultural and academic…

Novi Sad, a city known for its world famous Exit Festival has so much to offer besides partying. It is home to some of the most important cultural and academic institutions in the country, and it has an interesting offer for those who love cultural tourism. Unlike Belgrade, Novi Sad has a multi-ethnic feel which makes it different from the capital. There are plenty of galleries and museums with exhibitions that often change, so if you are a culture freak a visit to Serbia would not be complete without experiencing Novi Sad’s cultural offer.

And here are a few cultural attractions in Novi Sad that deserve to be checked out;

Novi Sad City Museum

The museum has a fantastic location on the Petrovaradin fortress and is best known for its underground military tunnels. This underground system was one of the largest among European fortifications as it consisted of 16 km long tunnels. A lot of money was poured here by the Habsburg Empire as the fortress had an important role of protecting the boundaries of the Empire. “Novi Sad from the 18th to the 20th century” is another great exhibition that provides insight into the lifestyle and culture of living in the city. The collection consists of fine arts, old photographs, personal items of its citizens, books, furniture, music material etc. There’s also a memorial collection of Jovan Jovanovic Zmaj – one of the most important Serbian writers. Outside of the museum there’s a cozy cafe with the amazing view of Danube river and Novi Sad.

Novi Sad City Museum

The Gallery of Matica Srpska

Founded in 1826 in today’s Budapest, Matica Srpska represents one of the most important cultural and scientific institutions of Serbian people. The museum was moved to Novi Sad in 1864 and its collection has grown steadily ever since. The gallery mostly showcases the works of art dating from the 16th to 20th century. The works of some of the most famous Serbian painters are showcased here such as: Teodor Iljic Cesljar, Konstantin Danil, Pavel Djurkovic, Katarina Ivanovic, Djura Jaksic and others. The exhibits include post-byzantine icons, baroque paintings and modern Serbian art so don’t miss this once in Novi Sad. The Gallery of Matica Srpska is located at the Gallery Square where another two institutions are also based – the Pavle Beljanski Memorial Collection and the Rajko Mamuzic Gift Collection.

The Gallery of Matica Srpska

Serbian National Theatre

This theatre is the center of the cultural life in Novi Sad. The repertoire is large – from classical opera and ballet to modern Serbian drama. Dramas are mainly in Serbian language and the theatre also hosts various festivals and events such as the famous Novi Sad Jazz Festival.

Serbia-0296 - Serbian National Theatre

Photo: Serbian National Theatre (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Dennis Jarvis 

The Museum of Contemporary Art of Vojvodina

The museum has a great combination of exhibits and programs that are well worth the visit. The fund includes paintings, sculptures, conceptual art, film, video and photography from the late 20th and early 21st century in Vojvodina but also the work of foreign artists. The entrance is free.

 

Where to stay

Novi Sad has many budget stay options and the one I really recommend is Hotel Vigor. Breakfast is included in the price and it has many healthy snacks while the staff is very kind and always ready to help. Rooms are clean and the wi-fi connection is great. All in all, the hotel exceeded my expectations and it’s much better than the number of its stars. However, the location is bit out of the city center, but the neighborhood is so quiet making this hotel a great choice for families. There’s a bus station 2 minutes from the hotel and taxi can take you to the city center for just 2 euros.

How To Get to Novi Sad

Novi Sad has no airport but it has excellent train and bus connections with other cities in the region. Trains from Belgrade run almost every two hours so you can depart at any time of the day. The exact timetable can be seen here. And for buses here.

What other cultural activities would you recommend in Novi Sad? Feel free to comment below.

No Comments on Top 4 Cultural Attractions in Novi Sad, Serbia

8 Little-Known Ways To Spend Time in Belgrade, Serbia

Although Belgrade is famous for its nightlife and attractions such as Kalemegdan park, Nikola Tesla museum and St. Sava Temple, it still provides many interesting experiences that are almost unknown…

Although Belgrade is famous for its nightlife and attractions such as Kalemegdan park, Nikola Tesla museum and St. Sava Temple, it still provides many interesting experiences that are almost unknown to tourists.

Here are some great and unusual ways to spend time in Belgrade;

1. Explore the markets

Zeleni Venac Market

This is not unusual for the locals who find visiting markets as a necessity, but if you happen to be in the Serbian capital you should visit at least one of them. Serbs favor naturally grown vegetables and fruits. You’ll be able to test your bargaining skills and buy some traditional Serbian products from various parts of the country, like kajmak, honey, ajvar and of course rakija (brandy). If you have no idea what I’m talking about, here’s a short introduction to Serbian cuisine. Markets should be visited in the morning to feel the real buzz of the place. Some of the most famous ones are: Kalenic, Zeleni Venac market and Bajloni.

2. Ride a bike from Dorcol to Ada

Most na Adi

For less than five euros, you can rent a bicycle for the day and explore the city. The recommended route is from Dorcol where you can rent a bicycle in sports center “Milan Gale Muskatirovic” and then head to Ada Ciganlija. You will see several bridges on the Sava river and explore the city from a new angle. In addition to this route, there’s also a circular path around the lake of Ada and New Belgrade cycling path.

3. Go on a kayak tour

kayak tour Belgrade - spend time in belgrade

 Another quite unusual thing to do in Belgrade is to go on a kayak tour organized by the Belgrade Adventure tour guides. The best way to describe this tour is: less talk-more action. You’ll be paddling for three hours around the Great War Island which is a nature protected area of the city. Besides paddling, you’ll also be involved in bird watching as this protected area is inhabited by 196 bird species and swimming at Lido which is a famous Belgrade beach. The tour costs 15 euros but it’s absolutely worth it.

4. Have a picnic at Kosutnjak park

Kosutnjak park Belgrade

Kosutnjak is a park-forest and one of Belgrade’s most popular recreational spots. In addition to its sports centre, Kosutnjak is also home to many restaurants, trails which are ideal for walking and running, film town with many studios and buildings etc. Park has an important historical role because a Prince of Serbia Mihailo Obrenovic III was assassinated here and it also used to be a hunting ground for Serbian royal family.

5. Sightseeing by tram

Belgrade tram sightseeing tour

Source: Tourist Organization of Belgrade

This is an organized tour by the Tourist Organization of Belgrade, and a great thing is that it’s free of charge. The tour lasts 60 minutes and it will take you through some of the most interesting points in the city including the Zoo, Kalemegdan park, Railway station and Nemanjina street (where it’s possible to see destroyed buildings left from the NATO bombing in 1999). For this tour you need to apply at some of the Tourist Information Points with your ID or passport because the spots are limited. The tour is available every Friday from 20-21h and Saturday from 18-19h in English language.

6. Get familiar with African art

Museum of African art Belgrade

Source: Museum of African Art

Museum of African art is the only museum in the region which is dedicated entirely to the arts and cultures of the African continent. The museum examines cultural areas of Ethiopia, Maghreb, Central and Eastern Africa and another important area of the work includes publishing. It’s one of the rare museums in Belgrade that has its own magazine called “Africa: Studies in art and culture”. African festival is another product of the museum and plays a major role in strengthening cultural ties and promoting the principles of multiculturalism and cultural diversity. Some of the things that are displayed include masks, ceramics, figures made of soft stone, musical instruments etc.

7. Visit the Etnographic museum

etnografski muzej

Source: Etnographic Museum

This museum houses a large number of items which are dedicated to Serbian culture and other ethnic groups from the Balkan region. It will take you through the traditional material culture, social relationships and family life, customs, beliefs and folklore of the country. The library has approximately 60,000 publications, including 33,000 books and 27,000 journals in the fields of ethnology, anthropology and related sciences, making it one of the best equipped library in the Balkans. 

8. Go Karting

Karting race

If you have never done karting you should! It’s so much fun and fun is good- especially for adrenaline lovers! 😉 It’s also a refreshment from typical activities that Belgrade offers. AutoKomerc sells individual and group rides of 10 minutes so you can compete against yourself or your friends. This is the only professional karting track in Serbia and it meets all requirements in terms of security. AutoKomerc’s karting track is easily accessible from Nikola Tesla Airport (just 3 km away) and it’s worth making a stop here. If you are an expat who lives in Belgrade you may even be interested in School of Carting.

No Comments on 8 Little-Known Ways To Spend Time in Belgrade, Serbia

Belgrade Skyline That You Rarely Get To See

Beogradjanka is a high-rise building located in the downtown area of Belgrade. Construction of this building which is one of the highest in the city (101 m) began in 1969…

Beogradjanka is a high-rise building located in the downtown area of Belgrade. Construction of this building which is one of the highest in the city (101 m) began in 1969 and was completed in 1974. There used to be a restaurant at the top which was closed for safety reasons. This tall building houses department stores, business premises and media offices. One of them is a city-owned TV and radio station called ‘Studio B’. The quality is not the best (dirty windows!) but the view of Belgrade skyline is still great! Take a look;

Beogradjanka 2

Beogradjanka 3

Beogradjanka Beograd

Beogradjanka Belgrade

Beogradjanka 6

Liked this post? Subscribe to my newsletter and get more interesting content directly in your inbox.

1 Comment on Belgrade Skyline That You Rarely Get To See

Bar To Belgrade By Train – The Most Scenic Eastern European Train Ride

Everyone has heard about the Bergen railway, Flam railway and Glacier Express, but what about the Eastern Europe and its railway routes? One route that definitely deserves attention is the…

Everyone has heard about the Bergen railway, Flam railway and Glacier Express, but what about the Eastern Europe and its railway routes? One route that definitely deserves attention is the one from Bar to Belgrade, which connects the Montenegrin coast with the capital of Serbia.

Not only does this route include breathtaking mountain scenery but also the crossing of 254 tunnels and 435 bridges of which the most impressive one is Mala Rijeka viaduct- the world’s highest railway viaduct.

Here are some basic facts;

Fares and timetable

For fares and timetable click here. You’ll need to enter the stations and the date first to get the prices.

Duration

17 hours, 550 km

The train leaves Bar at 5pm and arrives in Belgrade next morning at 10am.

When to go

Summer

Points of interest

Montenegro: Lake Skadar, the highest railway viaduct at Mala Rijeka, Moraca valley

Serbia: Kumanica monastery, Lim river, Zlatibor, Belgrade

I have traveled this route in August 2014 and it was one of the most unforgettable experiences. You might want to make a reservation a day or two earlier because 3-berth compartments may be taken really fast. I’ve bought a ticket in 6-berth compartment and went to the platform. There was a column of people, many of which with children, who were moving from car to car without knowing in which one to enter. The whole mess lasted about 20-30 minutes, after which the train whistled and finally moved.

Bar train station

Bar train station

Belgrade Bar by train

6-berth compartment

Belgrade Bar by train 2

I got a bed on top which involved climbing the ladder, and there we were… a Serb, Macedonian, an Englishman and Russian in a small 6-berth compartment which was a bit claustrophobic. The temperature was high but the refreshment came almost immediately after the departure of the train. Getting a supply of food and drinks is recommended because there’s no restaurant in the train. There are a couple of restaurants and shops near the train station where you can buy things.

You may wonder why it takes 17 hours for 550 km of travel? It’s even more bizarre that in 2014 it takes 17 hours while in 1975 it just took 7 hours to reach Bar from Belgrade. Welcome to the Balkans! However, there is a reason for this. During the nineties, this railway suffered from underfunding which has resulted in the railway deteriorating. Also, this line has been the target of NATO bombing in 1999, when parts of the tracks were seriously damaged.

As soon as the train passed the tunnel Sozina which is the longest one on this route (6 km), majority of people left their compartments and stood by the windows enjoying the beautiful scenery. A train passes by lake Skadar which is splendid, before arriving in the Montenegrin capital to pick up the passengers. The most impressive moments of the journey were crossing the viaduct Mala Rijeka, as well as passing through the canyon of Moraca river.

Belgrade Bar by train 3 - Lake Skadar

Lake Skadar

Belgrade Bar by train 4

Leaving Podgorica

Belgrade Bar by train 5

Belgrade Bar by train 6

Belgrade Bar by train 7

Mala Rijeka viaduct

The passage is full of students who are talking about the exams that await them, older people who debate about politics and crying children, but they all have something in common – not taking their eyes off the beautiful landscape. I had the opportunity to meet a few Polish girls in a train, who have shared their cherry vodka with me and my friend, and made this journey even more interesting. Cherry vodka, the wind blowing your hair and amazing scenery… what else can you wish for?

Belgrade Bar by train 8

Belgrade Bar by train 9

Belgrade Bar by train 10

Belgrade Bar by train 11

 After 175 km the train arrives at the border with Serbia, more precisely, at the border crossing Bijelo Polje. By then it’s already dark outside and everybody is back in their compartments for the passport check. Majority of people decided to sleep or have a rest, while outside there were just people who were having a smoke. Traveling through the Serbian countryside and seeing the moon shining down on isolated homes is also an unforgettable experience.

The next morning, the passage was again full of people with their heads out of the window, anxiously awaiting to see a symbol of Belgrade – Avala Tower, and to arrive in the capital.

Belgrade Bar by train 13

Slowly approaching Belgrade

Belgrade Bar by train 14

Abandoned train cars

Belgrade Bar by train 15

Final destination – Belgrade

Have you ever traveled this route before? Is there a train ride that you will never forget? Feel free to comment below.

12 Comments on Bar To Belgrade By Train – The Most Scenic Eastern European Train Ride

Type on the field below and hit Enter/Return to search