EuroTribe

your guide to Europe off the beaten path

Category: Serbia

Five Great Hikes in the Balkans

The Balkans are a fantastic place to go hiking or for an outdoors holiday. With plenty of mountains, lakes, and forests, the Balkans offer a true opportunity for adventure and…

The Balkans are a fantastic place to go hiking or for an outdoors holiday. With plenty of mountains, lakes, and forests, the Balkans offer a true opportunity for adventure and some of the most spectacular views. You can always choose between short and long distance hiking trails, depending on your level of fitness and available time.

And if the only thing you’re missing is inspiration here are the five great hikes in the Balkans;

Mount Olympus

The highest mountain in Greece and the home of Greek gods according to Greek mythology, Mount Olympus has always attracted the attention of people. The mountain is located 80 km southwest of Thessaloniki and is relatively easy to get to. It offers numerous hiking paths, among which the Litochoro – Prionia – Spilios Agapitos is the most popular.

The route consists of walking along the beautiful Enipea Canyon, Agios Dionysios monastery, spectacular Enipea waterfalls and more. Due to many ascents and descents, it is more suitable for experienced hikers.

If you decide to stay on the mountain you can sleep in one of the refuges. The one in Agapitos is the most popular.

The length of the route is 17 km and it takes around 8 hours to complete it.

Rtanj Mountain

Rtanj won’t top the lists of the biggest mountains in Serbia but it is definitely one of its most mysterious. With its pyramidal shape, there were many theories of the existence of this mountain. Some believe it is alien’s creation while others sought shelter prior the famous Mayan doomsday which obviously didn’t happen.

Theories aside, Rtanj mountain is a beautiful hiking spot with lovely villages in its vicinity. It is also famous for local tea called Rtanj which has many health benefits.

Rtanj’s highest peak Siljak offers beautiful views of the area and the mountain is home to many rare healing herbs. The mountain is best accessible from the town of Boljevac.

> Accommodation in and around Boljevac 

Vitosha Mountain

Vitosha mountain dominates Sofia’s cityscape and is the city’s most notable symbol. It is one of Bulgaria’s best mountains for hiking, skiing, and alpinism and is also the oldest natural park in the Balkans.

The best hiking paths on Vitosha are Aleko Hut – Cherni Vrah peak; Boyana Church – Boyana Waterfall and Vladaya – Golden Bridges.

Boyana is Sofia’s elite suburb and Boyana Church is listed on the UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites.

The easiest way to get to the mountain is with a bus or a taxi. Buses can have sometimes irregular schedules and taxis are inexpensive so I’d recommend saving time by going with the latter option. If you don’t have time to organize this daily trip by yourself you can choose to book a tour to the mountain. Also, don’t forget to check out my detailed guide to Sofia.

> Accommodation in Sofia

The Accursed Mountains

The Accursed Mountains have always topped the lists of great hikes in the Balkans, and Europe in general. There are three national parks situated in the mountains – one is in Montenegro and the other two in Albania.

One of Europe’s most remote areas, the Accursed Mountains offer beautiful scenery, picturesque villages and a real mental challenge! This walk is best for the more experienced hikers.

You can start your tour from the town of Shkoder and pay a visit to the nearby Rozefa fortress. Albania used to be isolated for years, however, that’s slowly changing and the country is drawing more attention thanks to its beautiful beaches and the Accursed Mountains. You can read more about my journey to Albania here.

Durmitor Mountain

Durmitor is a national park in northern Montenegro. This area is famous for the Tara Canyon which is the deepest in Europe. The town of Zabljak from where most hikes are starting is the highest populated town in the Balkans.

Durmitor is mostly known for its glacier lakes. There’s 18 of them and Crno Jezero (Black Lake) is the most famous. It is very close from the main town of Zabljak. Crno Jezero is a good starting point for half-day and daily hikes.

Walking through beautiful forests, admiring the lakes and tasting authentic local cuisine, are one of the top and must have experiences in Northern Montenegro. These features regularly place the mountain among the greatest hikes in the Balkans.

> Accommodation in Zabljak

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Where To Try Craft Beer In Belgrade

Belgrade’s craft beer scene is getting more noticeable each day. What started with just one or two brands now expanded to almost 10. Here’s a breakdown of where to try craft…

Belgrade’s craft beer scene is getting more noticeable each day. What started with just one or two brands now expanded to almost 10.

Here’s a breakdown of where to try craft beer in Belgrade.

Pivopija Beer Shop

This beer shop is located in Zemun neighbourhood and offers more than 40 types of beer. Try Dogma Crna Krava made by Dogma Brewery. There’s a small sitting area too.

Address: Bezanijska 37

Miners Pub

This is one of the most popular pubs in Belgrade with excellent beer choices. It’s great for hanging out with friends and you can also play foosball or darts. The place can be a bit chaotic and smokey in winter but that’s the case with almost every Serbian bar unfortunately. Try some beers from the Kabinet brewery – the most popular craft beers in Serbia at the moment.

Address: Rige od Fere 16

Samo Pivo

Another very popular beer only place in Belgrade with more than 50 types of beer on offer. Arrive before 9pm or you probably won’t get a table. They also have a summer garden and the staff is very helpful and knowledgeable.

Address: Balkanska 13

Majstor Za Pivo

One of the biggest craft beer stores in the Balkans. You’ll find over 150 beers here.

Address: Hercega Stjepana 15

Pub & Bar Kabinet

This bar also has a nice atmosphere and it’s much easier to find a table here than at ‘Samo Pivo’ for example. They feature Kabinet beers and bottled beers from all over the world.

Address: Milutina Bojica 2

Berliner

This place is different than the others as it also serves food, mostly German (as you could tell from the name). There’s a good selection of beers and food wise, they serve sausages, burgers and hot wings.

Address: Brace Krsmanovic 6

The Black Turtle Pub

The Black Turtle represents a chain of pubs with four pubs in the city center and a mini-brewery established in 2000. They are famous for their blueberry, lemon and strawberry beers.

Honorable mentions

  • Beerville

  • Cigla & Krigla Pub

  • Gunners Pub

  • Srpska kuca piva

  • Pivski Zabavnik

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Belgrade Travel Guide – Best Tips for Serbia’s Capital

As a local I’ve written many posts on Belgrade and its cool and free attractions. This time I decided to write a Belgrade travel guide but in a different format….

As a local I’ve written many posts on Belgrade and its cool and free attractions. This time I decided to write a Belgrade travel guide but in a different format. It’s ideal if you want to save some places to your Foursquare app or just bookmark it for later use.

Transport

BusPlus Card – The best way for tourists to move around Belgrade is with non personalized BusPlus card. It costs 250 RSD and you can top it with as many rides as you want. The single fare is 89 RSD and is valid for 90 minutes. With this card you can also buy a 1-day pass (250 RSD), 3-day pass (700 RSD) or 5-day pass (1000 RSD). You can top the card at any kiosk in the city and you validate it when inside the bus.

Walk – Yeah, Belgrade is not that big and many attractions can be seen on foot. Chances are, you might not even need the public transportation.

Here are more details on how to get around in Belgrade.

Attractions

Knez Mihailova - Belgrade travel guide

Belgrade Fortress – This is Belgrade’s number one tourist attraction. It offers a fantastic view of the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers and is home to many cultural and historical attractions. Must sees are: Ružica church and Sveta Petka Church, Nebojša Tower, the Victor monument, Roman Well, Kalemegdan Park, the Military Museum and the Monument of Gratitude to France.

Republic Square and Knez Mihailova Street – Republic Square with its statue of Prince Mihailo is a famous meeting point for Belgraders. The square is also home to the National Museum and the National Theatre. Knez Mihailova is the main pedestrian zone in Belgrade with many notable landmarks on the way, restaurants and shops.

Terazije Square – Another famous central square in Serbian capital. Home to famous Hotel Moscow, Palace Albania and Terazije Terrace.

Savamala – Belgrade’s cultural hub and one of the best neighborhoods in Europe according to Business Insider. Here you’ll find cultural centers, bars, designer stores etc. Very popular among young people and hipsters.

Skadarlija – Now a totally different kind of neighborhood… this is a Serbian version of Montmartre. It’s an old bohemian quarter with cobbled lanes, taverns and restaurants. They mostly serve traditional Serbian food. It’s a very touristy place but if you want to have that experience don’t miss it.

Zemun – Many tourists skip this part of the city but if you’re staying longer, don’t miss the chance to walk across Zemun Quay and see Gardos Tower.

Ada Ciganlija – Ada is a river island on Sava River and a popular oasis for locals especially in summer. It offers many sport activities and entertainment. You can rent a bike, go water skiing, jogging or play beach volleyball.

Kosančićev Venac – This neighborhood is very central, yet so many people don’t get a chance to see it. It’s an old part of the city with cobbled streets and beautiful houses. I recommend a walk around the neighborhood and along the way you’ll also see the Cathedral Church and Princess Ljubica’s Residence. If you’re a history buff, you can also see the ruins of the National Library which was destroyed during the German bombing of Belgrade in 1941.

Slavija Square – One of the largest, busiest and ugliest squares in Belgrade. Currently it’s under renovation so maybe the last thing will change 🙂 Anyway, you won’t miss it if you happen to go to Nikola Tesla museum or St. Sava Church.

New Palace and Old Palace – The New Palace is the seat of the president of Serbia and the Old one houses the City Assembly.

Royal Palace – The official residence of the Karadjordjevic Royal Family. The palace is open for visitors but you must previously register with the Tourist Organization of Belgrade. For more info click here.

St. Sava Church – The largest Orthodox church in the world.

Museums

Nikola Tesla Museum - Belgrade travel guide

Nikola Tesla Museum

Museum of Contemporary ArtCurrently closed due to reconstruction.

National MuseumCentral building and its exhibition space is also closed due to reconstruction.

Museum of Nikola Tesla – One of Belgrade’s most notable museums exhibiting the life and work of Nikola Tesla. Coming here without a tour is pretty much useless but luckily museum offers free guided tours every hour in Serbian and English. You just need to pay the entrance fee.

Museum of Yugoslav History – This museum exhibits the cultural heritage of Yugoslavia. There are many interesting installations and photographs and a big part is dedicated to Yugoslavia’s leader Tito. Do not miss the House of Flowers which is located behind the museum as Tito’s grave is located there.

Historical Museum of Serbia – This museum is among my top 3 at the moment in Belgrade. Lately they’ve had some surprisingly innovative exhibitions.

Military Museum – Ironically this one holds more history than the Historical Museum and is much bigger. It’s set in Belgrade fortress and there’s an outer exhibition with tanks and other armory.

Honorable mentions

  • The Camp at Banjica

  • Museum of the Yugoslav Film Archive

  • Museum of African Art

  • Nebojsa Tower

Parks and Recreation

Kosutnjak Forest - Belgrade travel guide

Kosutnjak Forest

Kalemegdan Park – City’s largest park and a well-known tourist attraction.

Student’s Park – Surrounded by many faculties and cultural institutions this park mostly attracts younger crowds. It’s especially popular during summer nights where people gather for chit chat and some drinks.

Tasmajdan Park – Another beautiful park which was recently renovated. St. Marko’s church is located here and the park borders one of city’s largest streets – Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra.

Kosutnjak – A park-forest ideal for escaping city’s busy life.

Sport Center Milan Gale Muskatirovic – Good for swimming.

Where to Stay

HotelsCombined is a great hotel price comparison site. Check out hotels in Belgrade.

Another great site is Booking.com. I usually finalize all my bookings there.



Booking.com

 

Eating

Serbian food - Belgrade travel guide

City Markets – Serbs favor organic foods and markets are the best place to stock up on vegetables, fruits, cheese and other products from various parts of the country. The most famous ones are: Kalenic, Zeleni Venac and Bajloni.

Tri Sesira – Traditional Serbian restaurant in a famous bohemian quarter of the city – Skadarlija.

Moon Sushi – Great service and even better sushi.

InterGalactic Diner – Food is average, but the atmosphere is better. It’s an American style diner with a jukebox next to each table. Cool for hanging out with a group.

Via Del Gusto – Nice Italian restaurant in Knez Mihailova street.

Garden Food – Salads, soups and sandwiches. Ideal for a light lunch.

Radost – Vegetarian and vegan restaurant. Great food and a nice atmosphere. Book upfront or you risk not getting a table.

Prolece – Another traditional Serbian restaurant. Good food and budget friendly.

Sakura – Fantastic Japanese restaurant. To get the most out of the place, have a late lunch, grab a table on the terrace and enjoy the sunset view of the river and the city. And your food! 🙂

Tel Aviv Hummus House – Israeli fast food joint with great falafel sandwiches and other vegan options.

Dijagonala 2.0 – Stylish fine-dining spot with an interesting menu.

Burger House – Probably the best burger in town.

Burrito Madre – Mexican fast food joint. Nice burritos.

Zapata – Cozy and budget-friendly Mexican restaurant.

Luda kuca – Chinese fast food and my guilty pleasure. 🙂

Drinking & Nightlife

Nightlife - Belgrade travel guide

Cetinjska Street – The most popular nightlife district in Belgrade at the moment. My favorite bars are: Zaokret, Dvoristance, Kenozoik.

Supermarket Concept Store – Great for a drink in the evening (go to one in Toplicin Venac, as there are a few). During daytime hours  you’ll find clothes from Serbian designers and other cool, unique stuff.

Meduza – Awesome bar, music and people. The atmosphere is at its best at night but it’s also cool during the day when you can do some work from your laptop or just enjoy a cup of coffee.

Bar Central – The best place for cocktails.

Wine Art Podrum – Nice wine bar and food.

KC Grad – An art gallery and a night club with great events. Exhibitions, discussions, concerts – you’ll find everything here.

Samo Pivo – Rich selection of craft beers from Serbia and abroad.

Rakia Bar – If you want to try the national drink of Serbia come here.

Club 20/44 – Great club on the Sava river.

The Globe Trotters Club – One of Belgrade’s secret bars with an interesting decor.

Muha – Jazz bar in Kralja Petra street. Nice for an evening drink.

Ljubicica – Bar located inside an apartment. Limited menu but cool atmosphere. Address is Prizrenska 11/6.

Mikser House – Mikser organizes many cool events and is a great place for an evening drink (especially in summer).

Drugstore – One of the most popular Serbian and European underground clubs.

Coffee

Koffein – Nice place for having a cup of coffee or tea. They have few locations, the one in Cara Lazara street is the best.

Boutique – Always crowded but it’s a good spot for tourists for a coffee break.

Kafeterija – Hipster coffee place.

Amelie – Cozy and cute French cafe.

Barista Coffee Shop – Delicious takeaway coffee.

Apropo – Nice little bookstore where you can sit and enjoy a cup of tea.

Elixir Bar – Smoothies and milkshakes.

Shopping

Usce Shopping Center – Belgrade’s biggest and busiest shopping mall.

Delta City Shopping Center – Another big shopping mall but less crowded than Usce.

Belgrade Design District – Fashion, arts and crafts. You’ll find many things from young and creative designers. Address: Čumićevo sokače.

Supermarket Concept Store – Another cool clothing store and a bar/restaurant.

Mikser House – This venue organizes many thematic festivals where you can buy different things from designer clothes to photography equipment etc.

Knez Mihailova Street – The main pedestrian street is also one of Belgrade’s most popular shopping destinations.

Festivals and Events

Belgrade Beer Fest - Belgrade travel guide

  • Belgrade Dance Festival

  • Belgrade International Film Festival FEST

  • International Science Festival

  • Free Zone Film Festival

  • Belgrade Beer Festival

  • Belgrade Marathon

  • Mikser Festival

  • Museum Night

  • Belgrade Summer Festival

  • Belgrade Jazz Festival

  • Film Street

Tours

Royal Palace Tour

Kayak Tour – For adventurers and those who love action.

Free Tram Tour – Tourist organization of Belgrade organizes a free tram tour of the city. You need to register at the tourist info point.

Day Trips

Avala – This mountain is a popular day or weekend getaway for Belgraders. It’s great for walking and light hiking. You can also see the Avala Tower and the Monument to the Unknown Hero.

Novi Sad and Sremski Karlovci – Serbia’s second biggest city is just a 2 hours away train ride.

How to Get to Belgrade

AirSerbia and WizzAir have flights from major European cities. You can search and compare the cheapest rate on Momondo.

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RyanAir Nis to Berlin Flight Experience

If you are looking to visit Serbia and flying on a budget and vice versa (going to Germany) you might consider Ryan Air’s line between the two cities. This was…

If you are looking to visit Serbia and flying on a budget and vice versa (going to Germany) you might consider Ryan Air’s line between the two cities.

This was also my first RyanAir experience as they’ve started their operation in Serbia just recently. I was really curious about this flight as the customer reviews about RyanAir are really low and I wanted to compare them to WizzAir.

I’ve booked the ticket two months earlier and got it for 30 EUR both way. Bargain! 🙂 But I’ve heard people paid even less than this. All you have to do is play with the dates.

Hopefully you’ll find my Ryanair Nis experience useful when planning your trip.

Check In Process

First of all, make sure you print and bring your boarding pass with you! If you forget it you’ll pay 15 EUR for the reissue. If you forget to check in online, the airport check in fee is 45 EUR.

During the check in process you’ll be asked if you want to pick a seat or have it randomly selected for you. The standard seat selection costs 8 EUR per flight. I’ve let RyanAir pick a seat for me randomly and I got one in fourth row. Seats from the 2nd to 5th row are actually priority seats and they cost 13 EUR per flight if you decide to reserve one. This isn’t that bad as it will allow you to leave the plane quicker.

If you buy the seat you can check in 30 days prior to departure. If you want it automatically assigned you can check in from 7 days to 2 hours before departure.

Before finalizing the check in process make sure that no extra things were added that you’d be charged for.

How To Get from Belgrade to Nis

There are a couple of ways to get to Nis.

First of all I advise you to check the website of the Belgrade Bus station and their timetable. This will help during the planning process and while matching the right bus. I’ve used Nis Express many times on this route and while they’re not the most comfortable option they get the job done. The tickets are cheap and they have the biggest number of departures (23 daily), which was the key reason to choosing them.

Another option I know of is a shuttle bus company offering transfer between two cities. I’ve never used them but they are listed on the website of Nis Airport. I’m listing them as an alternative but if you have any experiences with this company feel free to leave a comment describing your impressions. The price of one way ticket for the date I picked was 2460 RSD. In comparison return ticket with Nis Express is 1400 RSD.

From the bus station you can go the airport with a bus 34B or get a taxi which is very cheap.

Nis Constantine the Great Airport

This is a very small airport with just one terminal building. Check-in counters are located here. If you have a printed boarding pass and a carry on luggage you don’t need to go to the bag drop counter. I use Cabin Max Metz backpack when flying with low-cost carriers. You can check my full review of the bag here.

Now, I want to emphasize something when it comes to passport control to which many people don’t pay attention to. I advise you to get travel insurance. They’ve almost didn’t let a girl board a flight because she didn’t have it. I’ve been asked about this in a small number of occasions but you never know when it might happen. It’s not mandatory but officials of any country can ask for other supporting documents.

The boarding gate is small and crammed with many people. There’s a small duty free shop here.

If you arrive to the airport early you can waste time at the airport’s restaurant  which is the only option you have here. The airport’s restaurant is very cheap so I’d suggest having a snack before boarding the plane – because there are no meals included at RyanAir’s flight. It’s located before security. There are no other shops at the airport and nothing fun to do around.

Service

The flight departed around 1 hour later but this is typical for low-cost carriers. Note that if you experience a two-hour delay you can apply for a refund or change your delayed flight for free.

The seats are not the most comfortable ones but they are okay for a 2 or a 3-hour flight.

You’ll see advertisements everywhere. Their inflight magazine doesn’t have any interesting articles, it’s all ads! Besides food and beverage, flight attendants will try to sell you perfumes, watches and other merchandise.

The food on board is not free so be ready to pay as I previously mentioned or get something at the airport.

Summary

RyanAir does the job of taking you where you want to go for a very cheap price. This reflects the service, the number of ads, punctuality etc. Considering that you’d be using RyanAir for short flights this should be easy to deal with. Just pay special attention to all the extra fees.

Other Flights

At the moment the only two airlines flying from Nis airport are WizzAir and RyanAir. You can check destinations and their timetable here.

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How to Travel from Belgrade to Sofia

This guide will show you how to travel from Belgrade to Sofia. The distance between two cities is 393 km so it is easily manageable by bus or a car….

This guide will show you how to travel from Belgrade to Sofia. The distance between two cities is 393 km so it is easily manageable by bus or a car. However, here are all the options.

By Car

If you are traveling by car and perhaps touring the Balkan countries, this is one of the quickest ways to access Sofia. If it’s summer the waiting time on the border could be prolonged as many people are going to a holiday to the Bulgarian Coast or Turkey. The journey lasts around 4 hours and 30 minutes.

By Plane

Air Serbia operates a flight between the two cities, however this is mostly a business line and the tickets are expensive for the budget savvy travelers. Check out Air Serbia’s website for more detailed info.



By Bus

If you are looking on how to travel from Belgrade to Sofia by bus I’ll list 3 companies who operate on this route.This is one of the cheapest and quickest options and most travelers opt for this transportation method.

Nis Express

They have daily service, two times a day. The bus departures Belgrade at 00:45 and 12:30. The price of the return ticket is 40 EUR and if you are a student 32 EUR. You need to show a student card.  This is like 150 EUR (sometimes even more) cheaper than a plane.

The only downside is that you need to change a bus in Nis. Once you arrive there you have to proceed to the info counter and show your passport and ticket for the next bus that goes to Sofia.

Florentia

This bus leaves once a day at 03:30. It’s a direct line with no stops in between. You can check the prices online and even book the ticket.

Lasta + Karat S

This line runs only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday with the departure at 14:30 from Belgrade.

By train

Trains in Serbia and the Balkans in general can be unreliable and very slow. The one way ticket from Belgrade to Sofia is 20 EUR and the journey lasts 9 hours and 40 minutes. However, the train is often late. If you travel with a company you could get a sleeper car but I don’t recommend traveling alone on a night train if you are a solo female traveler. You can check the timetable here.

You can check out the official websites and see which option is the best for you!

 

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Belgrade to Budapest by train with Budapest Special

Serbian Railways offers ‘Budapest special’ promo tickets for journey between Belgrade and Budapest for only 26 EUR. One way ticket is 15 EUR. It’s not possible to buy tickets online…

Serbian Railways offers ‘Budapest special’ promo tickets for journey between Belgrade and Budapest for only 26 EUR. One way ticket is 15 EUR. It’s not possible to buy tickets online via Serbian Railways website. MAV which is a Hungarian State Railway offers booking via internet but you need to collect your ticket at any of the ticket collection points at the railway station. Home printing is not possible so if you arrive without a collected ticket you’ll need to buy a new one.

However, you can buy tickets directly at the station, even before the start of the journey as usually there are no shortage of tickets. Making a reservation is a good idea if you want to travel during holidays such as New Year’s Eve or during the time of some festivals. These promo tickets are valid for 2nd class only.

There are three daily departures from Belgrade to Budapest, at 07:36, 11:35 and 21:50. The departures from Budapest are following: at 08:05, 12,05 and 22:25. The full timetable can be seen here. You need to type BEOGRAD instead of Belgrade.

Belgrade to Budapest by train

I departed from Belgrade at 7:20 in the morning. The passenger car was part of MAV – Hungarian State Railway. The seats were okay considering this is 2nd class. There were many empty seats, just around 10 people in my passenger car. The train has a restaurant and two power outlets per car. You can’t use it for a laptop but it’s good for charging your phone. Power outlets are at the beginning and the end of the car if you wanna catch those seats 😉

Belgrade to Budapest by train - MAV passenger car

MAV passenger car

Belgrade to Budapest by train - MAV car

Almost broken power outlet

Belgrade to Budapest by train

The train has WiFi but it only works on the Hungarian territory. Actually it barely works on it too as the signal disappears often. And it only works up to 4 hours.

Arrival to Subotica is around 11:20am and the first passport check is here. The journey continues at 12:50.  It takes two hours for passport check at the both sides. Hungarians are really strict especially because of the current situation with immigrants.

Budapest to Belgrade by train

Ivo Andric train leaves Budapest at 08:05. This passenger car is owned by Serbian Railways. The carriages are old but the seats are more comfortable. Again the car was almost empty but a lot of people entered in Novi Sad. This car has power outlets by every window. No WiFi  and restaurant here. If you are traveling from Budapest to Belgrade ‘Avala Train’ which leaves at 12:05 could be a better solution. This one is operated by MAV.

Budapest to Belgrade by train

Yes, that’s someone’s foot in the back 😀

Safety

Stay alert if you are traveling alone and keep an eye on your valuables. People get on and off on this train quite often so being alert is more than recommended, as the cases of small theft used to happen quite often.

Any questions or comments, feel free to write below.

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